Planting and Care
Plant Care Articles
- Can I Keep It?
- Did You Say Use a Chainsaw?
- Don't Just Leave Me
- Flowers, What Flowers?
- Growing Perennials and Annuals under Trees
- Is It Time Yet?
- It Could be a Matter of Life and Death
- It's a Cold, Cruel World
- Movin' On Up
- Overwintering Begonias
- Preparing for Spring
- Rules of Thumb for Pruning Flowering Shrubs
- Sun, Shade or Perhaps Something in Between
- To Deadhead or Not to Deadhead…
- Planting Trees & Shrubs
- 4 Main Reasons Plants Fail to Grow
- Planting Roses
- Fertilizing Roses
- Fall & Winter Rose Care
- Tropical Plant Care
Planting Trees & Shrubs
- Dig a hole one foot wider and about as deep as the plant�s rootball. Do not plant too deep. Roots should be visible at the surface of the soil and the top of the rootball should be even with the surrounding soil. In clay soil, the rootball should be slightly higher.
- Remove plants in plastic or fiber pots from their containers. Place plants in hole. Loosen roots by making four or five slashes, about one-inch deep vertically down the rootball with a knife. Then tease the roots out so they will grow into the surrounding soil. Be careful not to knock too much soil from the rootball.
- For balled and burlapped trees and shrubs, place the rootball in the hole. Back fill to almost full, and then remove twine and any burlap on top of ball.
- Backfill with a mix of existing soil and 1/2 soil amendment thoroughly mixed. In sandy porous soils, us sphagnum (Canadian) peat moss. In dene clay or poorly drained soils, use soil conditioner (finely ground pine bark).
- Water thoroughly. Then only water when the soil is dry to the touch about 1 1/2 inches or knuckle deep. Check regularly and only water when necessary.
- To give your new plant a head start, use a very mild solution of water soluble root-stimulating fertilizer which is high in phosphorous and potassium.
- Young trees should be staked for at least the first year. Young trees can also benefit from trunk wrap through the first winter season to prevent sun-scald. Remove wrap when the weather warms.
- Keep soil cultivated and grass free around trees, or mulch with 1 to 2 inches of organic material such as pine, fir, or Cyprus bark; or soil conditioner.
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4 Main Reasons Plants Fail to Grow
- Too much water.
- Planting too deep.
- Improper fertilization.
- Lack of water.
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Planting Roses
- Selecting the proper site for your rose will improve its success. Roses perform best with a minimum of six hours of direct sun daily. There should be air circulation through the foliage to keep it dry and discourage diseases. Plant the bushes away from large trees or shrubs, which compete for nutrients, moisture, and sunlight.
- Dig a hole twice the width and the same depth as the rose container. Mix one cup bone meal or 1/4 cup triple super phosphate into the soil that has been removed from the hole.
- Remove the rose from the pot by holding the rose at the base with one hand and tapping the top of the container until it comes loose. Wearing gloves may be wise.
- Taking care not to disturb the roots, place the rose bush in the hole so that its bud union is one to two inches below ground level.
- Backfill with a mix of existing soil and 1/2 soil amendment thoroughly mixed. In sandy porous soils, us sphagnum (Canadian) peat moss. In dense clay or poorly drained soils, use soil conditioner (finely ground pine bark). Fill the hole to the top of the root ball. Firm soil. Cover entire planting area with a two to three-inch layer of eucalyptus or cypress mulch.
- Water thoroughly. Afterwards, water only when soil is dry to the touch about 1 1/2 inches or knuckle deep. Check regularly and only water when necessary.
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Fertilizing Roses
Feed roses every 3 weeks during the growing season through mid-August...
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Fall & Winter Rose Care
Most roses need winter protection during cold weather to ensure success in subsequent years. Garden roses vary in their endurance of winter conditions. Shrub and miniature roses are generally considered the hardiest and need minimal protection.
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Tropical Plant Care
Water
Water only when the soil is dry to the touch about 1 1/2 inches or knuckle deep. Check regularly and only water when needed. If the soil is allowed to dry out it is very difficult to rehydrate. You may have to submerge the pot in water and allow it to soak for a few minutes. Afterwards, allow all the water to drain freely from the pot. Check the saucers under each pot for excess water. If you find sitting water, you are over watering or the plant is too dry between waterings.
Light
Most indoor plants do best in bright light. The best place in the home for this type of light is a southern window. All other locations in the home should be considered low light. As a rule provide the highest light level possible.
Temperature
Flowering plants will last the longest at temperatures around 65� F. Foliage plants will tolerate higher temperatures but only with adequate humidity. Since bright locations are often hot and dry, proper ventilation and humidification is essential.
Humidity
Plants thrive at humidity levels around 50%. Homes with humidifiers have levels around 30% in winter. You can boost humidity by:
- Misting the foliage
- Filling a shallow tray with gravel and water. Place the pot on the gravel above the water line.
Fertilizing
Fertilize indoor plants once a month during growing periods. In general, use a 15-35-15 for flowering plants and 20-20-20 for green plants.
Summer Vacation
Most indoor plants will thrive on the deck or patio in the summer. Be careful of too much sun; water frequently but allow to drain freely. Be sure the spray for insects prior to returning the plant indoors for the fall.
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Content Courtesy of English Gardens, MI
